Malcolm’s Fine Upholstery: Scottsdale Arizona 480-690-6805
How to select upholstery fabric:
Terms:
Natural fibers: Wool, cotton, jute, hemp, linen, rayon, leather.
Synthetic fibers:
Polyester, acrylic, microfiber, nylon, acetate, olefin (polypropylene), PU, PVC, performance fabrics.
Categories of upholstery materials:
Contract (commercial use) High abrasion resistance, can be easily cleaned.
Automotive/transportation: High abrasion and UV resistance, aircraft will have fire retardents.
Marine: High UV resistance, salt water, abrasion resistant
Hospitality: Hotel/restaurant, can be cleaned with commercial solvents, usually has anti stain chemistry added.
Medical: Can be disinfected, harsh chemical resistance, will not absorb fluids, puncture and abrasion resistant. May contain anti-microbial properties.
Residential: Low abrasion & UV resistance, careful cleaning depending upon product. Generally the most “decorative” category with the widest range of texture, pattern, color and blended materials.
Leather:
A natural byproduct of the meat processing industry, animals are not raised for their hides to make leather, though this is true for fur used in garments.
There are many ways to process leather, some are high quality and some are very low quality. It’s very hard to know based upon appearance, buying from a reputable vendor is a good way to get the product you want.
Veg tan leather is generally for leather products and “tooling” it’s generally thick and hard to the touch. Rarely used for upholstery except for some dining seats or sling seats.
Chrome tanned leathers are used for upholstery and garments. There are other tanning processes, but for upholstery chrome tanned is the most common.
Aniline dyed, wax & oil finish: The most natural looking leather, fine leather accessories and very high end furniture that will develop a “patina” over the years. Looks the most like a natural product with all defects on display. Needs to be regularly conditioned.
Pigmented & dyed, oil finish: Most common “high end” leather for upholstery. Needs to be cared for with regular conditioning.
Corrected, pigmented, top coated: Used for “high traffic” furniture and automotive, it has a protective PU top coat to protect against moisture and stains, looks more like vinyl than leather and since it doesn’t breathe or wear like better quality leather using vinyl may be a better option for durability and cost. Cannot be “conditioned” as the PU later prevents intrusion into the leather.
Embossed leather: Split grain leather (suede) is top-coated with a pattern, color and top finish. Highly decorative and used in some designer pieces, but vinyl may be a better choice for durability and cost.
Suede: This is the “split grain” of a cow hide, it’s soft and prone to staining, has a distinctive nap and is generally no longer used for upholstery due to it’s lack of durability. Various “microfiber” synthetic materials have a similar texture and feel but are more durable and can be cleaned.
Bonded leather (never buy this) Literally the waste material from leather processing, ground up and formed into sheets, embossed, pigmented and top coated. This only exists so sellers can call it “leather” but it’s mostly glue and plastic, use a better type of leather or vinyl which is a far better product.
Solid surface materials:
Vinyl:
PVC(Polyvinyl Chloride) A plastic resin laminated to a woven substrate. Vinyl is a very durable and adaptable material. Better quality materials are made in the USA and are used in Marine, Automotive, Aviation, Medical, Hospitality, Residential, Outdoor, etc. An excellent material for durability and it’s ability to stand up to chemical cleaning. There are many grades of vinyl fabric, some are soft, some hard depending upon the use. This material does not “breathe” like a woven textile so can become uncomfortable for prolonged seating, but as it does not absorb fluids it’s easy to keep clean.
Polyurethane PU leather:
Same construction as vinyl, a PU plastic resin coated to a woven substrate. This material has a soft touch, but does not last nearly as long as vinyl. It’s the most common leather substitute on the market and often called “vegan leather” which is a very poor term to use as plastics have nothing to do with veaganism. PU suffers from pealing caused by hydrolysis due to moisture intrusion into the fabric causing delamination. Many “leather” couches that peel are not leather at all, but “PU leather” or are “bonded leather” which has a ground up leather scrap substrate with a plastic PU surface, this is the worst performing product sold.
Silicone:
This is a relatively new material on the market and has the durability of vinyl but the softness of polyurethane, generally expensive but a high performance material. Silicone top coating over a woven substrate.
Woven fabrics: “Textiles”
Canvas:
Canvas is a “plain woven” textile of rectilinear warp and weft threads, denim has a “twill weave” which includes a diagonal thread for it’s distinctive look and feel. Generally the most durable weave and can be woven from cotton or synthetic fiber. Wide industrial application, heavy garments, but generally used only for Marine upholstery.
Printed patterns: Inks are applied to the surface of a woven fabric, will wear with prolonged contact. Popular with garment fabrics, bedding and other light weight applications like drapery, often a satin weave.
Jacquard weave & other decorative woven technologies:
The pattern of the cloth is woven into the fabric, preferable for upholstery use due to it’s durability and three dimensional like texture. Today this is a computerized process so the variety of patterns is seemingly infinite.
For residential upholstery one’s considerations are normally aesthetic first, then performance.
Do you have young children or teens? A performance fabric or vinyl will hold up to the rigors of family life.
Textiles are most common due to their high breath ability and overall comfort. Natural fiber textiles used to be the norm, now it’s synthetics due to cost and durability. Camira fabrics ( camirafabrics.com ) has a line of wool and flax blended fabrics which are abrasion resistant, but need to be cared for a bit more than synthetic materials. Water or solvent based cleaners will work depending upon the stain, so not hard to care for in the home. Camira has a few lines of natural fiber fabrics, and some with a minimal amount of synthetic fiber for strength.
Color, pattern, texture are some of the initial considerations one has to decide upon when choosing an upholstery grade fabric. What “speaks to you” personally and what looks good in your home? is what makes selecting fabric such a difficult process. If you can narrow down your parameters before heading off to the fabric showroom or looking online then you will save a lot of time.
Fiber: Natural or synthetic? This is a big category you can narrow down your search by deciding early in your fabric search. If it’s not an important consideration then go right to color.
ColorThis is an easy one to start with. What is the base color you are looking for in your home? Many upholstery fabrics are a blend of colors, but they will all have a predominate color so you can start your search.
Texture: Another easy choice to narrow down your search. Smooth or coarse woven, raised patterns or a plush nap like a velvet? Try to decide before starting your search.
Pattern: “To pattern or not to pattern, that is the question”. Most commercial and hospitality fabrics do not use patterns as does a lot of “modern” furniture. It’s a clean aesthetic that some people like and others do not.
1. Geometric Patterns:
- Stripes: Vertical, horizontal, or even diagonal bands of color or texture.
- Checks & Plaids: Repeating patterns of intersecting horizontal and vertical lines, creating squares or rectangles.
- Chevron & Herringbone: Zigzag patterns, with herringbone distinguished by a break in the zigzag.
- Houndstooth: A duotone pattern with a broken check or checkered effect.
- Geometric: More abstract and varied geometric shapes.
2. Floral Patterns:
Florals: Featuring flowers, leaves, and other botanical motifs.
Toile: Often featuring scenes or vignettes with a rural or pastoral theme
3. Abstract Patterns:Florals: Featuring flowers, leaves, and other botanical motifs.
Abstract: Non-representational designs with shapes, colors, and textures.
Ikat: A dyeing technique that creates a blurred or feathered effect on the fabric.
4. Novelty or Thematic Patterns:
Animal Prints:
Patterns that mimic animal skin or fur.
Nautical, buildings, bicycles, etc.
Damask:
A reversible patterned fabric with a raised design, often used for elegant upholstery.
Paisley:
A distinctive teardrop-shaped motif with intricate swirls and curved lines.
Novelty:
Patterns featuring specific objects, characters, or scenes, such as nautical themes or children’s motifs.
How are you going to use the fabric? Answering this question before heading to the showroom or web store will enable you to cut down on your choices, be sure not to choose garment or drapery fabric. If the fabric is rated for upholstery and drapery, it’s likely on the lower end of abrasion resistance scale. For occasional use, that’s OK, but for living room or dining I would look for something more sturdy.
Leather, vinyl, polyurethane, silicone:
Leather is the standard and the synthetics are generally emulating the look of leather with a variety of patterns, colors and embossing. Most of the categories above will help you select this material.
Mechanical properties of textiles:
Here are the key wear parameters considered when evaluating upholstery fabric:
Abrasion Resistance (Double Rubs): This is a measure of how well a fabric can withstand wear and tear from friction and repeated use. It’s determined by subjecting the fabric to repeated rubbing until signs of wear appear.
Residential Use:
Light Duty: 3,000–20,000 double rubs, suitable for decorative purposes or low-traffic areas.
Medium Duty: 20,000–30,000 double rubs, ideal for furniture with regular usage in residential spaces.
Heavy Duty: 30,000–100,000 double rubs, designed for high-traffic areas and frequent use.
Commercial Use:
Today 50,000 is usually the minimum specified. Many contract fabrics are rated over 100,000 and that I what I would prefer to recommend to my clients.
Contract Upholstery Minimum: 15,000 double rubs.
Heavy Duty: 15,000–30,000 double rubs, for offices, hotel rooms, and dining areas with moderate traffic.
Extra Heavy Duty:
I personally think this standard is outdated, over 100,000 is good for this category.
30,000+ double rubs, for high-traffic environments like waiting rooms, theaters, and airport terminals.
Pilling Resistance: This indicates how well a fabric resists the formation of small, unsightly balls of fiber (pills) on its surface due to friction and wear.
Pilling is evaluated on a scale from 1 (severe pilling) to 5 (no pilling).
A good pilling rating is generally considered to be 4 or 5.
Lightfastness: This measures a fabric’s resistance to fading or discoloration when exposed to light, particularly UV light.
It’s measured on a 1-8 scale, with 1 being the most likely to fade and 8 being the most resistant.
Interior textiles usually require a lightfastness rating of 5-6, while outdoor textiles need 6-8.
Cleaning Code: This specifies the recommended cleaning method for the fabric. W= water and soaps only. S= Solvent cleaners only. WS= water or solvent depending upon the stain.
Cold Crack Resistance (for vinyl): This measures a vinyl’s ability to withstand low temperatures without cracking or becoming brittle, particularly relevant for outdoor upholstery and vinyl windows on patios and boats.
While double rubs, pilling resistance, and lightfastness are key parameters, factors like fiber type, weave tightness, and finishing treatments also influence a fabric’s overall durability and wear resistance.
While double rubs, pilling resistance, and lightfastness are key parameters, factors like fiber type, weave tightness, and finishing treatments also influence a fabric’s overall durability and wear resistance.
Has this helped you select a fabric for your home? Not exactly a quick answer, but I hope it narrows down your selection process and saves you some time. Despite not retailing fabrics myself, this is why I do consult with my clients to help them choose a fabric for their projects. A short discussion is free, If I source fabric for you that will be a paid service.
Give me a call and we can discuss what your specific needs are. I also have a blog post about fabric selection
Best of luck,
Malcolm